Slip and Crush!

Went out to Star Wall with Dustin Sabo Saturday morning. The whole summit was still cover in snow and we were planing on trying Canibals (12d) but the snow ruined that for us. Any ways we went out to Star Wall to go train since it is a slight over hang but just enough to keep the water off of us. The trail was covered in snow but not bad enough to make it hard on us to get out there, since we already did that once and we fell in like every 20 feet. Well to get to the wall you have to cross this little slab section. It was all covered and in my approach shoes that don't have tread on them didn't help me at all. I slipped and as a reaction I dug my hand into the snow covered rock. I was sliding down for a while till I finally stopped. I take my hand out and it was numb and I couldn't feel it. I shout to Dustin saying I slipped and my hand is numb. I later looked at my hand and saw that I was bleeding. I have severely chiped my nail and that it needed to rip it off. I get to the base of the crag and I showed Dustin. After that we warmed up on Cookie Mix (12a) then later did Warp Factor (13a) As a goal we set, doing Warp Factor five times in a row with out falling, we were determined to accomplish this goal. Dustin was close to doing it but fell at the last move due to being pumped. After watching him fall I got nervous, thinking that I wouldn't be able to do it. After doing it four times no one thought it would go because it was so hard. With Dustin setting the par high I knew I had to either do it or make it to the high point. I got on the route trying my hardest to get to the anchors. It was a fight to the finish and I gave it my all. I finished doing a 13a five times. After we finished that we did Cookie Mix four more times to do ten pitches in a day. We finally did one of our long term go to do ten pitches of 12a or harder and five of our pitches were 13a. We sure did gun it out there to become a better climber and to have fun. Some times you just need to gun it hard to accomplish your goals.

Winning the Local

So yesterday, November 5th of 2011, was Rocksports local ABS comp. It was a great time watching and climbing my hardest and watching other kids crush it out here in Reno. I went there to compete and showed that I still have what it takes to compete being a local and all.Well I competed in the Open category and took 1st. Also took 1st over all in the USA Climbing association. Went into finals for Male Open and took 2nd. It should have been a tie because the winner didn't control this really bad heinous pinch and jumped for a edge while I was able to hold onto the pinch and then move. Oh well its just a comp. I had a lot of fun. Cant wait for the SCS comp and Star Wall on Tuesday.

Scrambled brains!

So me and Queen (Dustin) had a dawn patrol outing last Sunday. Me waking up at 5:30 to go rock climbing? Yeah that's what I did and we got up to Donner to go climbing in 28* degree temps. Freezing outside we warmed up on a quick solo of Devolution 5.7. Nothing really bad but just a quick warm up. Then we head over left of the Snow Shed wall to try some new lines because we were getting tired of getting shut down on our projects that we decided to try something new. We hoped on this 12b called Brain Child. Now climbing the granite at Donner is pretty stout, ask any local and they will give me the thumbs up of rightness. So this climb was like no other climb in Donner. It reminded me of Tuolumne climbing. It had so many holds it was hard to figure out which hold to hold onto. They were like the coolest nobs that I have ever held onto. Anyways Dustin was breaking down the beta in his head while I went in blind till we started discussing the beta since Dustin has done this route before it wasn't too difficult for him. I went up and got up there and hit the crux. A big move where I'm on my tip toes to get this small crimp with my left hand. I barely held it with my thumb catching the side that I match on first then my finger rolling on top of the hold. After already climbing up four bolts and literally see the top from there I knew this was it. I later matched and went out to the good edge that you hit and then crossed into the slopper that kind of reminded of my of a Hard Grit action going on. With this scary mantal over the edge where you clip the anchors. It's pretty scary cause you don't want to fall and slide off then fall for about 10 feet till you past the draw. I just kept my cool and climbed it. Sent it and now I'm going to climb this cool 12d named Canabals. So close on Taste! I will have pictures up by the end of the week if possible. Word!

Sponsorship maybe?

Well I just finished my resume for a climbing sponcorship with Five Ten. I hope it all works out. It would be pretty sweet to get sponsored by my favorite climbing company.

The Guns are Blazing!

I finally sent All Guns Blazing (13a) The third day of the summer of really working it and I finally sent it. That is my third 13a ever. (Warp Factor, Noah's Arc and All Guns Blazing) It is time for me to get Taste the Pain (13c) and then I can find another project to try.

Run away Train!

I finally sent Midnight Train (7/8). Now its time for me to try and get Nichie Girls so then I can do the Triple Crown of Midnight Train, The Hobo, and Nichie Girls. Yeah buddy!

Crazy summer madness.

So summer was crazy. Sending a lot and working projects. Making great progress on Taste! Just one more crux then the send! Sent the Hobo (V9) they say its a 8 but I think its more of a 9 along with others. Its crazy fun. I hope i can send soon. Comp season starting up soon and then kicking but then. A lot of traning and climbing. Just doing what I do and having fun doing it. Check out the vid that my friend made of me doing the Hobo.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOTRnICUZLk