That shit is The Real Deal

Yesterday, January 17, 2012 I yet again sent another V10. I did The Real Deal up at Donner Summit in California. This problem was put up by Dustin Sabo back when he was my age. This problem has two crux, the first one is when you start. You have this good block to start with, with a really bad smear with you left foot and a good foot with your right foot. You then pull up and literally fall and grab onto the nice edge. You match with your feet and match with your hands then pump your hand to this pinch next to your hand. You then reach up to this nice pinch edge. You have to spragle this thing to even hold on. You cut your feet and place your left foot on a smear and then reverse toe hook with the right foot and pump to another pinch stab your left foot up to another smear and toss for a crimp and try to keep your toe hook. Once when you stick the crimp you have to move your hand up and hit this pinch and with your right heel and then pump your hand onto this other pinch and then flip your heel to toe and then use your other leg to help swing yourself over to the edge with your right hand and pull up and over. This problem was one of the coolest v10's I have done. It was really great and fun. I am excited for bishop hopefuly this weekend. Half Shark Alligator Half Man for sure! 

Acid Wash

So last weekend I did my first v10 down in Bishop. I did Acid Wash. So many people go out to the jug for the first move, now let me tell you that doing that does not make it a v10. You must do it the orginal way. Which is the same start but you hit the gaston and the up into the sloppers. So anyways I was able to complete my first v10. I was so excited! Finally a double digit for once. It was really exciting to get to the top of the boulder and just think about how I did it. It was great. Now its time to move on to other climbs. Beef Cake and Slow Dance soon.

Bishop Trip! Part IV

So last weekend I, yet again, went back down to Bishop to go climbing. This time I was with my friend Lindsey Bath. She has only been climbing for 5 months and is working v6 and 11b. She got in Wednesday night from her trip to Texas and I was closing that night as well. She got in about the same time I got off so it worked out perfectly. After closing and picking her up we had to stop and get food for our trip. Leaving the town of Reno at the time 11pm, we drove down to the town of Bishop and  rolled in to camp at about 3am. Setting up the tent and then fell asleep. Waking up and getting really excited, he headed over to the Buttermilks to warm up and try some hard stuff. We warmed up on the Sunshine slab boulder. After doing the nice easy highballs we went over and tried the Cave Problem v3 on Grandpa Peabody boulder. I then got on the Southwest Arete 5.9 on the Grandma Peabody. After doing that I hoped on Go Granny Ho v7. I sent it first try which was pretty nice. After that we meet up with my friends and went over to where Moonraker was. After showing them how I did it we went over and got on Bowling Pin. Watching my friend Trevor Roosen flash the v4 part, I decided to get on and try the v6 sit  start to this problem. Flashing that problem we went back into town to chill and eat some food. We get back to camp and chill for a little bit and set off some bottle rockets. Waking up and going down to the gorge to get some endurance going action going on. After doing some ropes and hiking out of the gorge, we went to the Happy's to get some bouldering going down. There I sent my first v10. I did Acid Wash but I did it to the jug then did it the orginal way to do it since Dustin Sabo was the FAer. After doing that we went to go climb by moonlight. We did another climb but scared ourselves cause we thought we saw something. Waking up after dealing with some problems that night we went back to the Happy's so Lindsey can do some last minute climbing. After we were done with the day we drove home. That Bishop trip was great and exciting. I was very happy to have spent it with Lindsey. More bishop trips to come soon.

Moonraker

Two weeks ago I did my first Bishop V9. This v9 was named moonraker. This problem was put up by my best friend Dustin Sabo. He first ascent this problem back when him and Vic Copland were roaming down in Bishop when they were my age. After being tired and complaining about how my skin hurt that day I went back to go try some other problems and some how ended up doing moonraker instead. It was great. My friend Nick Bradly was also there trying to get Gleaming the Cube sit V8. Second go we were so close and later both sent our problems third go. It was pretty cool to do moonraker. First move is off these underclings with ok feet to a ok small edge. After sticking that you have to place your right heal next to your hand on the undercling. Your heal sits on this supper small crystal and you pray to god that it holds while you do everything else. After sticking the heal you go out right to this good edge then bump to this small edge. After sticking that you get another heal and fall into the first hold you bumped off of. Now the beta is to turn your heals into toe scums. With that you are able to get most of your body weight on that right arm to be able to hold the swing when you cut your feet. After holding the swing you then now have to find a way into the scoop and crawl through the hole and up the v2 to finish it.
 Here is a link to my vid of me doing this climb.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uFBxyTiID8&feature=youtu.be

Bishop Trip! Part III

So the weekend of new years I went back down to Bishop CA to go and try to crush some of projects. Leaving work at 8pm to get down there at not have to wake up early to get down there and not have much of a climbing day. So driving down was great. It went by really fast considering my top speed for the night was 103 mph. Getting up to Buttermilk road to meet some friends that I was meeting. After finding them at 12am I decided not to set up my tent and sleep in my car. Waking up at 8am to get some good gunning in, I was the first one to wake up. Waiting for everyone to wake and see what they are planning on doing. After roaming around the campsite waiting and they finally woke up and were ready to go climbing. Heading up to the Buttermilks on the road watching the Peabodys go by getting excited to yet again be back in Bishop. So warming up on Iron man v4 in my approach shoes again and running around just climbing what seemed easy. After the craziness that we were having I wanted to try moonraker. Getting over there and getting excited and meeting up with some friends I met up at Donner during the summer. After doing some catching up I got my shoes on and got excited to hopefully get it. After getting shut down a couple of times I decided to call it day because my tips were screaming at me. Leaving to go back to camp and having a great night just to have another day out in the milks. Waking up at 7am to go climb with Matt and Hannah Grossman back out in the milks. Pulling up and meeting them there just as they were getting there pads out of the car. The goal of the day was to pull on Iron Man v4 for Hannah and Matt and to go try Go Granny Go. Helping Matt and Hannah with some beta on Iron man Matt finally did it. Half of the day was complete with Matt doing that climb. Watching and trying to help Hannah send for awhile we headed down to go do Go Granny Go v5. After watching them climb and work it Matt yet again did his project. After hanging out with them I headed back to town to chill for a bit and try to get re-motivated. Heading back up to the Buttermilks to get back on moonraker, I met up with my good friend Nick Bradly. After hearing him sending his first v10, I wanted to get the break down on it. Heading over to moonraker we were talking about how school and break was going. Waiting for some of the other kids Nick was with I was getting excited. Setting up my camera and trying it three times one of which was me sticking the swing and the last one was me doing it. It was my first Bishop v9. Being tired I headed back to camp with my friend Eric Wolf and his girlfriend. After talking to them and finding out Eric almost sent fall guy v9 we went to bed. Waking up early to meet some friends to show them around the Happy's and leaving to head back home. My trip down to bishop was not as adventuous as it normally is but sending a v9 down there was inspiration to me to try my hardest even in the time of wanting to give up.

Transporter Room

While I was down in Bishop for my bday weekend, (sorry forgot to mention it on my last post) I hopped on the Transporter Room 12c. When we got over to the climb Dustin Sabo and I thought we would be good with just 2 pads but when Keven Jorgenson came over he got us some more pads which was great because you really do need them. When I was about to try this sharp crimpy problem I thought the bottom part would take me awhile to get but sure enough I got up to the hard crux physically and mentally because you are high up there. After dropping down I ran down to my car to get my chalk bag. On the way back me and Dustin met up with Charlie Barret. After talking to him for a bit we headed back up there so we could try it again. Second time around I got up there and was working out the crux again. I ended up falling cause I couldnt figure it out. I will be going down next week and hopefully I can get enough pads to try it again. I am also going to be getting up on a rope to check out the top half. Sending soon to come. Here is a video my friend Rod Grossman made.
Transporter Room 12c

Bishop Trip! Part II

So it was about time I updated my blog about my Bishop/birthday weekend. So the day after Thanksgiving, waking up at 5 o'clock AM to go get one of my friends Trevor Roosen in Truckee.After picking him up we gunned it down to Bishop for a exciting weekend. For me I was just happy to get back down there and it being the first time for Trevor. We just got on 395 highway heading towards Carson City when I got a speeding ticket. After dealing with my ticket we were off! With that little set back we were going to be a little late on gunning it down there. While driving through Walker Canyon, I was telling Trevor about the Future Project Boulder that was on the side of the road in this huge turn out. We decided to stop and check out the boulder. After a solid 10 mins of checking out the boulder and letting my legs stretch out from the drive we were back on the road yet again. After we got out of the canyon we got a phone call from my friend Dustin Sabo telling us to meet him at the middle gorge pull out to go gun it on some ropes. We confirmed and got there as fast as possible without getting another speeding ticket. We made it to the gorge being a little late but still heading down anyways. Trevor was in aw as me and Dustin started down the trail to get to the gorge. We went over the the Social Platform wall to warm up and try this 12b that Dustin was talking about on the way down. I was psyched to try it. After a route we hoped on Rip Off 12b. After watching Dustin put up the draws and watching Trevor get up there with a little take, I got nervous. Getting into the start off this really bad crimp to some more bad crimps to a edge that I got a good rest on before I did a couple hard moves till I got to the good jugs to get everything back before I got into the hard section near the top. After getting everything back I gunned it to the finish. With some ridiculous move then match then move and match a couple of times I hit the good three finger pocket. Staring at the anchors I was determined to finish this before I gave up. Being pumped to the max I graped a small crimp and hucked for the flat edge then stuck the giant jug by the anchors. I was so excited to have flashed a Owens River Gorge 12b because the gorge is stout sometimes. After cleaning the gear we went out to find another 12 to try. Walking over to the power plant we hopped on Pumping Ground Water 12a. Now it was my turn to put up the draws on this one. When you first look at it you see all of this poxy gunk everywhere in the beginning of the climb. It then turns into this nice finger crack then it finishes on some crazy mantels to good edges and the top is on some grippy slopers and small sloppy crimps. I did it first go for the Onsight. That day could not have gotten better and it was only day one. Later that night we went into town to get some Mexican food at the local place. As`we walked in there we saw Keven Jorgeson in there hanging with some friends. Not trying to be one of those people who freak out about seeing a pro I just kind of aknoledged him and went to go sit down and eat some food. After stuffing ourselves with some food we went over to check Dustin's and Vic Copland's old stomping ground back when they were developing the Sad Boulders. After taking a tour with Dustin we went to camp and slept. Waking up the next day in Bishop was great. We decided to head over the the Buttermilks because that's where some of my friends were hanging out at. After getting there and warming up, Dustin and I decided to do the Southwest Arete of Grandma Peabody. Climbing that thing was scary but fun. It was more of a solo then a boulder problem climbing up about 30 feet without a rope. We meet up with my friends and climbed a lot down in the milks and had fun just hanging out and climbing. After that me and Trevor went over to the Sads to try Enter the Dragon v9 that Dustin put up. On my first try I got up to the hard crux near the top. I was so shocked. I thought it would take me longer to get up there. After a couple more tries my skin was starting to hurt. With my last try that night I got to the final move of the crux and feel. Knowing that we were coming back we grabbed our pads and headed towards the car. Waking up in the morning we cooked breakfast and then gunned it down to the Happy's. I really wanted to get onto Acid Wash v10. I was one move away from doing it and still am. After a couple good burns I decided to go find Trevor and hook up and try other stuff. After talking to John and Jake we went up to try this problem called Karma. It was recently put up about a year ago. After watching Shane get it and others try it was my turn. Shane said that it was his 6th try to have sent it. Looking at it I was scared that I wouldnt get it. Thinking back about all the other v6's that I flashed I was able to keep it cool and sent. It was a really cool problem. After watching others get it yet again we went back to the Sads. Giving Enter the Dragon one last try. Only trying it three times I gave that thing my all! The video is my best try on it. After getting tired we left and roamed around town for a bit before heading back to camp. Knowing that it was our last day tomorrow we were not to excited. Waking up and packing up was quick cause we wanted to get as much climbing in as possible. I wasnt up for anything hard so we went over to Iron man v4. Watching Joe Geta and Trevor working the thing I wanted to hop back on it. I did it first try in my 510 Deasents. After doing that we went over to try the cave problem. It was a v6 thinking that I could do it as my last problem down in Bishop for the weekend. After getting my shoes on and flashing it the weekend was over and we headed home. This was one of my best Bishop trips by far. Going down the day after Christmas. I wish everyone a Happy Holiday, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Years!