Monkey Paws and Steep Climb

Lucas Larson reaching for the good edge on Monkey Paws 12a

Last weekend I did my first 12a trad climb named Monkey Paws. This climb is located on the Snow Shed wall up at Donner Summit in Truckee, California. This climb is this beautiful, mellow finger crack that faces towards the parking area. My good friend Urs Moosemuller onsighted this climb in his early years. Now trad climbing is not much of my thing. I berfere to climb bolts and go pebble wrestling but I do go trad climbing here and there and I am now starting to spark a interest in that kind of climbing. The first time I got on the it I had no idea what I was doing, did not know where to stop and place gear, where to even place gear but i decided to man up and go for it anyways. Falling and getting scared, I decided that next time I was going to go at it a different way. I decided to go and rappel down and figure out how I was going to stop and place gear and what kind of gear I was going to need. I first ended up pink pointing the climb. (Pink pointing is where you already have gear placed but you treat it like you are sport climbing.) After sending it that way, I then pulled all of my gear and placed all six of my pieces again for the red point. I sent Monkey Paws placing my own gear and having a blast.

Lucas placing a bomber stopper placement.

Lucas Larson getting ready for the next move.

Later that week I went back and sent it again for the photo's that are above. After a nice warm up, I headed over to climb at Star Wall to get on my project, Steep Climb Named Desire 13d/14a. This became my new project after sending Taste the Pain. My friend Anthoney Ozuna was trying to work Warp Factor. He came pretty close all three tries but did not send. He will next weekend for sure though. I how ever tried and failed on Steep Climb, however it is not going to stop me from getting on that thing. I know if I send that climb my climbing will be pushed into the next level and I want that to hurry up as soon as possible but I am 100% okay with taking it slow to learn more about myself and my climbing in order to climb that climb.

Lucas Larson climbing on Warp Factor 13a before he heads for Steep Climb.

Lucas Larson climbing the long draw on Steep Climb

Rifle Colorado

The Black Canyon

I haven't updated the blog in for awhile and about two weeks ago I went to Rifle Colorado. Rifle is a place I have always wanted to go ever since I first watch Kurt Smith in Master of Stone. It was a great place to go and  I had a great time. Drive 14 hours to get to our destination, driving up the canyon in the dark not really seeing what was ahead of us. We stopped at the campground and set up as quick as we could so we could get a early start tomorrow.Waking up in the cool air, we ate and headed out to find some climbing. We first stopped at the Ice Caves due it haveing some easier climbs for us to warm up on. We first got on Bumble Bee (10a). I went up it and it was harder than I thought. I started to think that I wasnt going to be able to send the stuff I had in mind. We then went to the Waste Land and got on Popular Demand (10c). That climb later became our warm up after that day due to it being so good and mellow to warm up on. After that I got on Ruckus (12b). It was hard to onsight because I didnt know what to do. I thought it would be easy but I was wrong. After figuring out all of the moves, I got back on it and sent it second try. That was a lot of fun. We then headed over to the Arsinal  so I could be on Pump-O-Rama (13a). After two failed attempts, we went back to camp and made some food and talked. The next morning we headed to our warm up and then got on PMS and Squawk Box. We then went over to the Meat Wall. I got on a 12a named Crime and Punishment. I almost didnt onsight it at the top but I was able to keep my cool and finish up the route. All 14 bolts clipped. One of the longest climbs I have done at that grade. We then went to the Rukman Cave and gotten on Firearms (12a). Almost onsighted that one but fell at the crux cause I was lost on where to go. I later sent it second try. We went off to Glenwood Springs for a nice rest at the water. Heading out there the next day I got back on Pump-Or-Rama and almost sent it. We then drove to the Black Canyon the next day to try and get on the Scenic Cruse. We first got on a 10c called Comic Relief. This was my first multi-pitch in for awhile so I was a little rusty when it came to bulding anchors but we did it. Made it to the top and had a great time climbing the route. The crux was this beautiful finger crack that was just amazing. Close to the top, I got to lead the 5.9 dihedral pitch. That was a great part of the climb. We finish up the climb and begin the rappel I happen to drop my atc. :O I know, I know, what a gumpy move but I did go seven years without dropping anything so it was bound to happen. I had to use the good, old mutter hitch to get down, which is by far the scarriest thing I have ever done! So we get back to camp and talk about the day, realizing that we wont be able to do the Cruse. We left for Rifle the next day, stopping at some water parks for Mark to kayak in. We made it back to Rifle and I was psyched as ever. This was the time for me to send Pump-O-Rama. We get back and I do the warm up twice and then head down to the Pump. I waited a little bit just to get my psych. I put on the knee pads started up the climb and before I know it I am the crux. I screw up the crux trying to alter my beta but I should have just kept with my original beta so I wouldnt be tired but I was able to finish it quickly. I was really happy to have done this because this was my 5th 13 I have done. We then went to In Your Face (12d). I was able to send that climb the same day fifth go. That was my main focus of the trip.  

Lucas Larson getting the rest on Easy Skanken (12b)

Route done on the trip:

Pump-O-Rama 13A

In Your Face 12D

Never Believe 12D

Easy Skanken 12B

Rukus 12B

Crime and Punishment 12A

Firearms 12A

and also some random 11's as well. 

Sorry for this blog post not being as exciting as the others but I am in the process of watching my friend Josh Levin climb at Worlds in Vail, Colorado. More to come due to it being summer! The time to crush is now so my fellow gunners and climbers, go out and have a wonderful summer of crushing.

Order Has Been Sent.

Last weekend I went down to Bishop California to do some last season climbing. Leaving Friday to have a early start on Saturday, we were excited to be able to do some last bouldering to get strong. One of my projects was Standing Kill Order, this climb was located in the Slow Dance Cave in the Happy's. Standing Kill Order is on this beautiful prow that makes this problem amazing. Getting the start was no easy challenge, trying to get the toe hook just right was hard for me but the moment, I got it right I didn't stop.

Lucas Larson getting his foot up to make the next move.

Dropping the knee, I stuck the next move and then I had to hit the smallest crimp of my life, and it was virtical so this made it hard to hold. Pumping up to the next crimp and crossing to the pinch, I realized that I did a V11.

The small crimp I had to hold onto.

I never thought I would be able to do that problem so fast. It was only my second day on it. I was really excited! Doing that thing opened my eyes to all the possabilities that I can do out there in the world of climbing. My two week climbing trip is coming up! Rifle, Shelf, Black Canyon and Maple are calling my name. More to come but for now, KEEP CRUSHING!

Lucas reaching for the far away crimp.

Lucas Larson staring at the next good crimp.

Bishop Trip! Part VIII & IX

Bishop Sunset

So you may be wondering why I have put two Bishop trips on one post, well the reason is that Bishop Trip part eight wasn't really successful. The only thing I really did was Pow Pow V7/8. Didn't really do much after that. There is a video of my send below.

Bishop part nine was more successful. This trip I went down with Dustin Sabo, we headed down to get on the Sun Catcher A.K.A Half Shark Alligator Half Man. The first day was ok, it was a little cloudy and it rained that day. After we failed in the Sads we headed over to the Happy's to get on Standing Kill Order v11. After a couple of tries and getting really psyched, I got up and finished the climb. This was my first v11 and I was really psyched to have gotten this climb because it is such cool problem. More about it in my next post.

Lucas Larson on the beginning of Standing Kill Order

SCS Open Nationals

Last weekend I trecked across Utah and Wyoming to go to Boulder, Colorado for Sport Climbing Series Open Nationals. Driving back 6 weeks later from ABS Nationals, we knew what was ahead of us for the drive. Making a stop in Rawlines, Wyoming for the first night was not really good for me. I had a hard time sleeping due to be me not feeling so well. Waking up and finishing our drive, I texted my good friend Urs Moosmuller, telling him that I am in Boulder and that we should hang. We ended up climbing in Boulder Canyon with Emma Boone and Keith Earley. Heading up there and warming up and starting to get into the hard climbing, I got on this 11a named Free Willy, which to me wasn't really a 11a but more like a 10b but who knows, I am bad at making proper grade assumtions. After that Urs and I went over to this 12c called Animal Instecnt. This was a really cool arete climb. With Urs putting up the draws we were able to make quick work of this climb, with me getting it my second try. With our adventure just starting, we left to head back to town but something happened. The car wasn't really going so we thought we ran out of gas. We cost down the hill back into town and Emma went off to get gas. Getting gas and trying to leave we found out that Urs has sealed his exhoust pipe shut when he was backing out. We were able to get a small whole in the pipe and were able to get to a Home Depot to buy a hack saw and saw off part of the pipe. That was a really good night.

Movement Climbing and Fitness 

Nationals were being held at Movement Climbing and Fitness. I have never been to this gym before and I was in aw of this gym. It was really nice and well done. Climbing on Route B first was hard. The route itself was the one that would be the biggest challenge for all of the competitors. I like Route B due to the really cool knee bar not too far up the wall. Making it up to the cross which spit me off, I watched and waited for the next route that was coming my way. Route A was on this just off vertical wall that lead to a roof. It was easier than my first route. Leading up to the roof was easy and technical and then it lead to a pumpy section on the roof. Going back to the hotel after everything was over, I went online and checked to see who was in finals. Seeing that my friend Josh Levin and Jacquenlyn Wu made it to finals was really awesome to see. I took 22nd which was really awesome for me. I was really excited to have done that well. Finals were the next day and everyone was getting excited.

Lucas Larson making a cross after the knee bar on Route B

Lucas Larson starting the roof of Route A

With finals right around the corner everyone was getting excited to watch the nations best climb to see who wins it all. Getting inside and looking at the amazing routes the setters have down was a great way to show that I wanted to set something like that back home. It got my setting fire back. Taking tons of photos and watching everyone work and try as hard as they can to make it to the top. Finals were over and speed climbing came with my good friend Josh taking second for speed climbing. Sasha took first for the women's. She was amazing to watch climb. Here are the high lights of it. Bishop coming up and my two week trip to Colorado next month. Enjoy!

SCS National Highlights

No Longer Tasting the Pain

Photo taken in July of last year.

As we all know I have been working on my 13c project. Taste the Pain up at Star Wall in Donner, California. Yesterday, March 10th I have finally done my project. After nine long month of work, dedication, frustration, training and getting my ass handed to me, I finally have done it. This by far in my hardest and most proudest send of all. I have been wanting this route so bad that I would obsess myself over it. On Thursday I was getting frustrated because it came down to one last hard move. Getting angry and feed up with the climbing, I called it a day that knowing that I will get it soon.

Now that I have done this project I must find another one to work and start the process all over again. I have already started looking at Taste the Bronco 13d and Steep Climb Named Desire 13d/14a. So many to do but this will never stop and neither will I. I am really psyched to have done this climb and I cant wait to do more.

ABS 13 Nationals

Last weekend in February I headed down to Colorado Springs, Colorado for ABS 13 Open Nationals. This was my first bouldering nationals that I have gone to which was pretty exciting. Me and my mom drove there from Reno, Nevada driving through Utah, Wyoming and Colorado. Driving through Utah and looking at how beautiful Salt Lake City is, we talked about how a competition works. How that you are scored on your highest hold you control. After driving for about 13 hours we made a stop in Rawlins, Wyoming. Watching the weather in our room, thinking on what our next step was (due to it going to snow that night) we decided to try to wake up early and trying to get out before they close I-80. Waking up at 4 AM and seeing that there was about 4 inches of snow on the road and realizing that they closed the freeway, we were stuck for awhile till they opened it back up. Sitting in our hotel room waiting, I decided to watch some of last years nationals to keep being psyched. Once they opened the I-80, we headed out as quickly as we can so we can get as far as we can in case they close it again. After a 5 hour drive we finally made it to Colorado Springs, driving past some amazingly built structures we found our hotel and got all settled down. Looking on Google Maps I learned that the city auditorium was only a mile away! (this is where they held the wall) I told my mom that I was going to go for a walk. I brought my climbing gear to go climb a little at City Rock. Walking and being amazed at what this gym looked like I worked my way over to the desk and got to climbing. After a solid hour of climbing I walked back in the cold brisk air of Colorado.

Beautiful Wyoming Sunset

Waking up early the next day to go watch the girls climbing, eating a really lousy breakfast that the hotel had and walking back to the auditorium, I was in aw when looking at the beautiful walls Entre Prises has made for this comp. Watching some of my friends and some of the pro's crush it for qualifiers, we had to leave and let them reset for the men's qualifiers. 

Entre Prises Wall

Now it was time for the men to climb. Entering isolation, looking around at all of my competitors, getting a little scared. This isn't the youth comps anymore, I am in the world of the big boys. Sitting in isolation warming up, looking at my competition and my friend Josh Levin comes in and we start  warming up. Getting nervous walking out of the isolation area  to the climbing area, last thoughts were entering my mind like don't screw up, make it to the top but sitting in the chair for problem number one I told myself that this is just all for fun and that no matter what you do or how far you get, you will do great. Recomposing myself before the timer ran out and then starting to climb. Moving on the every problem just trying to keep calm and have fun. After my last problem I went to go get my camera and take photo's of everyone else climbing. Got some good shots of  Jimmy Woods and Daniel Woods. 

Problem Number 2

Problem Number 4

Not making it to Semi-Finals and watching my friends from the Bay Area Crush it, we left and came back for the final show down. For the women's we had Alex Johnson, Lizzy Asher, Angie Payne, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Sasha Digiulian, Shauna Coxsey and leading the way was Alex Puccio. For the men's with Daniel Woods leading the way with Ethan Pringle, Michael Bautista, Carlo Traversi, Jon Cardwell, and Austin Geiman not to far behind. This was a pretty crazy final with everyone giving it all they have to make it up there. After finals were over and after everything has settled standing on top for the women's was Alex Puccio and for the men's Daniel Woods reigned supreme as the National Champions. Here is a link below to watch the finals go down!

Men's Finals     Women's Finals