Bishop Trip 2-1

Over the weekend I was able to take my first trip to Bishop this season. New season means new climbs and new struggles along the way. I got to take my girlfriend, Cat Carpenter down there for her first time climbing down there. She grew up in Mammoth and has been to Bishop before but not for climbing. I have a lot of goals this year on what I want to send and try my hardest at. Since it was only the first trip of the season and many more to come soon, I knew this  trip wasn't going to be a big send trip. The first trip never usually is anyways. Driving down 395, looking out the window into the cold, crisp clean air and realizing that I am home yet again. I look at Bishop more of my home than I do any where else. We drove down after I got off work Friday night and met Dustin down there.

Waking up after listening it lightly rain outside the tent, we woke up in a circle of clouds hugging the mountains around the little town. We headed toward the Happy Boulders to do some nice climbs and show the girl why is it  we climbers come here. After warming up and having to head to the rim due to Panda Bear (Dustin's dog) being a b*tch, we decided to head over to Cholos. (v9) I have never done it before and I have never really looked at the climb at all, just pictures of Dustin climbing it. After laying down the pads and trying to figure out where I needed to go, I started the climb and made it pretty far for never being on it. Realizing that I was pretty damn close just made me more determinded to climb the sucker. After figureing out some moves and linking the moves together on the try before my send made me realize that I am going to send it this next try. Watching Dustin almost send it again made me feel inspired and gave it my all on the next try.

Lucas Larson zoning in the the pocket.

Lucas Larson starting Cholos v9

Lucas Larson sending Cholos v9 Bishop California

 After sending Cholos, we decided to go and check out He Got Game. I was so stoked from sending Cholos that I was down for anything. Cholos is a stout climb and many who have done it will agree. I was just excited that I did it in a day and on my first day in Bishop of the first trip of the season. We were looking at He Got Game and realized that our skin hurt just a little too much, we headed back to the cars and went to do our own thing. Dustin went into town and Cat and I went to go see my family that was down there as well. We hung out and chatted for a bit and left to go back to camp. Waking up the next morning and having a rough morning, we headed for the Buttermilks to try The Transporter Room. Getting up there on a rope and freaking out a bit trying to figure out the sequence, we left to head home after a long weekend. We shall be back soon and I will be crushing it out there and sending hard this season. I hope to see you all down there as well. Keep crushing!

Lucas Larson checking out The Transport Room

Malcolm sit v10

The new gate that is now blocking the entrance  to the boulders 

As I drive around the corner to head towards the Saddle boulders, I was stopped by as large obstacle. I  fresh new gate that blocked the way to the boulders. Sitting in my car at 7am for the perfect conditions to finally send the Malcolm sit to Nietzsche Girls, I was not going to turn around now. I parked the car and walk four miles to the Saddle boulders, complaining the whole time due to the gate never being there for the four years I have been going out there. I walked to the boulders and started to warm up and then headed down the the saddle boulder and boy I was in for a surprise.

Lucas Larson about to send the Malcolm start

As I set up my camera for some footage, that will later be used for Fresh 2, I started to relax and think positive. I did the stand about a week ago and now all I have to do is do two more moves and then it would be over. I just needed to stay positive.

Lucas looking to stick the slopper. Photo taken last year

As I pull up onto the rail, I knew there was something new going on with my body, it felt stronger and lighter than ever. As I pull into the crux, I almost lost all of my body tension to keep my feet on the wall (as you will see in the video) I kept my cool even though my wrist felt like it was going to pop. I wanted to let go but when I got my foot matched and hit the pinch I told myself not to let go. I got my foot up and hit the slopper and realized that it was over. Now that four mile walk wasn't completely worthless. Now that I have done that climb it is time to move onto Boys in the Hood v12, which is in secret spot. ;) I shall be leaving for San Diego soon to visit some family, If anyone in the area knows me and if I know you let me know and we can go climbing together while I'm down there. Till then, keep on crushing like you guys should!

Nietzsche Girls

Raw footage of my send

Flagstaff Arizona

 This past week I was down in the hot desert of Flagstaff, Arizona. I went down there with my friend Bobby, who lives down there and showed me around. Driving down there was not as bad as I was expecting but still, 12 hours is 12 hours. Finally making it into town, I was wanting to climb to help get rid of the lazy car ride down there. Bobby took me to the NAU campus climbing wall. The next day we headed out to PBR Roof. This was a pretty classic roof full of something I was not expecting at all. It was all roof climbing. I have hardly ever climbed on roofs, except for a little bit at Comm Row, but never really on real rock. Trying to warm up on this v5 called The Hermit. I then got on Missionary Position (v6) and Puffer Fish (v7 ( it was more like a v5)).  I then tried this v9 named Our God is Neither. It was pretty cool on these pockets and a lot of maneuvering around. I left to drop Bobby off at work and headed back out to climb with Tyler Wade. He is a local bone crusher that knows how to climb roofs fast and easily. He is good at two things, rock climbing and making milkshakes. He took me over to Bat Roof, which was this really cool v3 with really big pockets.

Bobby Enzenberger on Missionary Position

Lucas Larson on Our God

Tyler Wade on Our God

The next day we headed out to this sport crag called The Pit. It still is limestone climbing but not a lot of roof climbing. I got on this really easy warm up and then headed over to this 13a climbing called Pulse Roof. This climb is more roof climbing but still really good. I was able to send it second go and made quick work of the crux and a scary clip and was able to gun it to the top. Thanks to Bobby, for putting up the draws, and Tyler for helping me with the beta for the crux. It was really cool and fun but the cleaning of the draws, well lets just say that I wanted to kill someone because of it.

Rest day the day after and on Saturday we headed over to Choss Roof. This roof is beautiful! Its big and steep, its everything you can ever think about when it comes to roof climbing. I got on this climb that was pretty freaking sweet. It has a big throw to this jug that just makes you feel like a bad ass when you stick it.

Choss Roof

Feeling like a bad ass

Just trying this was a lot of fun! The top half felt like I was refrigerator wrestling on a roof so it felt really hard. As the day was narrowing down I did another climb which was cool but scary due to it being kind of high off the ground. I learned a lot about climbing in Flagstaff, like don't go during rainy season. Just rains a lot, but I also learned a lot about using my feet which I hope will help me in my next climbing goal. until next time guys, keep on climbing!

Tyler Wade sticking the throw.

Taste the Bronco 13d

View from Star Wall

Yesterday, July 10th of 2012, I did my hardest climb, Taste the Bronco 13d at Star Wall at Donner in Truckee, California. On that day I also sent a 12b called Bucko on my second try. Thinking about trying Bronco after sending Bucko, but Dustin wanted to get on Taste the Pain, so I decided to climb Taste as well. Watching Dustin on Taste and shouting out beta made me want to climb it smoothly so Dustin could get some more beta. Dustin later tells me that I have to try Taste the Bronco. I looked at him, scarred and worried because I have never done Bronco before so getting up into new territory scared me a little but I went with it anyways.

Eric Perlman staring Bucko/Bronco.

Herman Gollmer climbing in the dihedral.

Starting Taste the Pain was easy for me due to me having sent this route earlier in the year but I still had to pull the 13c crux. Climbing fast, I get up to the bad left hand finger lock and almost blew it right there. I kept calm, hit the right had slopper and stared at the good edge that I throw for. Sticking that, clipping and getting up to the beginning of the traverse of the roof, I had to stay calm. That was hard because I have never been paste that point. Starting the roof traverse getting pumped, I can hear Dustin shout "straight arms!", my arms go straight, "cross!", I start crossing making bigger movement, "big move!", I make this big move and match and hit the good jug. I'm still freaking out but I manage to get a good rest and trying to get it all back. After resting for about 3-5 minutes up there, I ran for the top grabbing hold of what ever felt good, which wasn't much because my arms felt like they were going to explode. Getting to the top and clipping the anchors, I just realized that it was my first time on Taste the Bronco. I sent 13d first try. Now it doesn't count as a flash or nothing but more like sending it first try on a redpoint. It's hard to explain but all I know is that I did it first go.

Lonnie Kauk resting before he heads up on Taste the Bronco.

After sending that route I was really excited to start acctually working Steep Climb Name Desire. Figuring out the top and knowing what to do when I get up there really helped. Getting excited and staying psyched for more climbing and project sending. I hope you all have a great climbing year!

Lonnie Kauk getting a quick shake out on Taste the Bronco 13d.

Monkey Paws and Steep Climb

Lucas Larson reaching for the good edge on Monkey Paws 12a

Last weekend I did my first 12a trad climb named Monkey Paws. This climb is located on the Snow Shed wall up at Donner Summit in Truckee, California. This climb is this beautiful, mellow finger crack that faces towards the parking area. My good friend Urs Moosemuller onsighted this climb in his early years. Now trad climbing is not much of my thing. I berfere to climb bolts and go pebble wrestling but I do go trad climbing here and there and I am now starting to spark a interest in that kind of climbing. The first time I got on the it I had no idea what I was doing, did not know where to stop and place gear, where to even place gear but i decided to man up and go for it anyways. Falling and getting scared, I decided that next time I was going to go at it a different way. I decided to go and rappel down and figure out how I was going to stop and place gear and what kind of gear I was going to need. I first ended up pink pointing the climb. (Pink pointing is where you already have gear placed but you treat it like you are sport climbing.) After sending it that way, I then pulled all of my gear and placed all six of my pieces again for the red point. I sent Monkey Paws placing my own gear and having a blast.

Lucas placing a bomber stopper placement.

Lucas Larson getting ready for the next move.

Later that week I went back and sent it again for the photo's that are above. After a nice warm up, I headed over to climb at Star Wall to get on my project, Steep Climb Named Desire 13d/14a. This became my new project after sending Taste the Pain. My friend Anthoney Ozuna was trying to work Warp Factor. He came pretty close all three tries but did not send. He will next weekend for sure though. I how ever tried and failed on Steep Climb, however it is not going to stop me from getting on that thing. I know if I send that climb my climbing will be pushed into the next level and I want that to hurry up as soon as possible but I am 100% okay with taking it slow to learn more about myself and my climbing in order to climb that climb.

Lucas Larson climbing on Warp Factor 13a before he heads for Steep Climb.

Lucas Larson climbing the long draw on Steep Climb

Rifle Colorado

The Black Canyon

I haven't updated the blog in for awhile and about two weeks ago I went to Rifle Colorado. Rifle is a place I have always wanted to go ever since I first watch Kurt Smith in Master of Stone. It was a great place to go and  I had a great time. Drive 14 hours to get to our destination, driving up the canyon in the dark not really seeing what was ahead of us. We stopped at the campground and set up as quick as we could so we could get a early start tomorrow.Waking up in the cool air, we ate and headed out to find some climbing. We first stopped at the Ice Caves due it haveing some easier climbs for us to warm up on. We first got on Bumble Bee (10a). I went up it and it was harder than I thought. I started to think that I wasnt going to be able to send the stuff I had in mind. We then went to the Waste Land and got on Popular Demand (10c). That climb later became our warm up after that day due to it being so good and mellow to warm up on. After that I got on Ruckus (12b). It was hard to onsight because I didnt know what to do. I thought it would be easy but I was wrong. After figuring out all of the moves, I got back on it and sent it second try. That was a lot of fun. We then headed over to the Arsinal  so I could be on Pump-O-Rama (13a). After two failed attempts, we went back to camp and made some food and talked. The next morning we headed to our warm up and then got on PMS and Squawk Box. We then went over to the Meat Wall. I got on a 12a named Crime and Punishment. I almost didnt onsight it at the top but I was able to keep my cool and finish up the route. All 14 bolts clipped. One of the longest climbs I have done at that grade. We then went to the Rukman Cave and gotten on Firearms (12a). Almost onsighted that one but fell at the crux cause I was lost on where to go. I later sent it second try. We went off to Glenwood Springs for a nice rest at the water. Heading out there the next day I got back on Pump-Or-Rama and almost sent it. We then drove to the Black Canyon the next day to try and get on the Scenic Cruse. We first got on a 10c called Comic Relief. This was my first multi-pitch in for awhile so I was a little rusty when it came to bulding anchors but we did it. Made it to the top and had a great time climbing the route. The crux was this beautiful finger crack that was just amazing. Close to the top, I got to lead the 5.9 dihedral pitch. That was a great part of the climb. We finish up the climb and begin the rappel I happen to drop my atc. :O I know, I know, what a gumpy move but I did go seven years without dropping anything so it was bound to happen. I had to use the good, old mutter hitch to get down, which is by far the scarriest thing I have ever done! So we get back to camp and talk about the day, realizing that we wont be able to do the Cruse. We left for Rifle the next day, stopping at some water parks for Mark to kayak in. We made it back to Rifle and I was psyched as ever. This was the time for me to send Pump-O-Rama. We get back and I do the warm up twice and then head down to the Pump. I waited a little bit just to get my psych. I put on the knee pads started up the climb and before I know it I am the crux. I screw up the crux trying to alter my beta but I should have just kept with my original beta so I wouldnt be tired but I was able to finish it quickly. I was really happy to have done this because this was my 5th 13 I have done. We then went to In Your Face (12d). I was able to send that climb the same day fifth go. That was my main focus of the trip.  

Lucas Larson getting the rest on Easy Skanken (12b)

Route done on the trip:

Pump-O-Rama 13A

In Your Face 12D

Never Believe 12D

Easy Skanken 12B

Rukus 12B

Crime and Punishment 12A

Firearms 12A

and also some random 11's as well. 

Sorry for this blog post not being as exciting as the others but I am in the process of watching my friend Josh Levin climb at Worlds in Vail, Colorado. More to come due to it being summer! The time to crush is now so my fellow gunners and climbers, go out and have a wonderful summer of crushing.

Order Has Been Sent.

Last weekend I went down to Bishop California to do some last season climbing. Leaving Friday to have a early start on Saturday, we were excited to be able to do some last bouldering to get strong. One of my projects was Standing Kill Order, this climb was located in the Slow Dance Cave in the Happy's. Standing Kill Order is on this beautiful prow that makes this problem amazing. Getting the start was no easy challenge, trying to get the toe hook just right was hard for me but the moment, I got it right I didn't stop.

Lucas Larson getting his foot up to make the next move.

Dropping the knee, I stuck the next move and then I had to hit the smallest crimp of my life, and it was virtical so this made it hard to hold. Pumping up to the next crimp and crossing to the pinch, I realized that I did a V11.

The small crimp I had to hold onto.

I never thought I would be able to do that problem so fast. It was only my second day on it. I was really excited! Doing that thing opened my eyes to all the possabilities that I can do out there in the world of climbing. My two week climbing trip is coming up! Rifle, Shelf, Black Canyon and Maple are calling my name. More to come but for now, KEEP CRUSHING!

Lucas reaching for the far away crimp.

Lucas Larson staring at the next good crimp.