Rifle Colorado

The Black Canyon

I haven't updated the blog in for awhile and about two weeks ago I went to Rifle Colorado. Rifle is a place I have always wanted to go ever since I first watch Kurt Smith in Master of Stone. It was a great place to go and  I had a great time. Drive 14 hours to get to our destination, driving up the canyon in the dark not really seeing what was ahead of us. We stopped at the campground and set up as quick as we could so we could get a early start tomorrow.Waking up in the cool air, we ate and headed out to find some climbing. We first stopped at the Ice Caves due it haveing some easier climbs for us to warm up on. We first got on Bumble Bee (10a). I went up it and it was harder than I thought. I started to think that I wasnt going to be able to send the stuff I had in mind. We then went to the Waste Land and got on Popular Demand (10c). That climb later became our warm up after that day due to it being so good and mellow to warm up on. After that I got on Ruckus (12b). It was hard to onsight because I didnt know what to do. I thought it would be easy but I was wrong. After figuring out all of the moves, I got back on it and sent it second try. That was a lot of fun. We then headed over to the Arsinal  so I could be on Pump-O-Rama (13a). After two failed attempts, we went back to camp and made some food and talked. The next morning we headed to our warm up and then got on PMS and Squawk Box. We then went over to the Meat Wall. I got on a 12a named Crime and Punishment. I almost didnt onsight it at the top but I was able to keep my cool and finish up the route. All 14 bolts clipped. One of the longest climbs I have done at that grade. We then went to the Rukman Cave and gotten on Firearms (12a). Almost onsighted that one but fell at the crux cause I was lost on where to go. I later sent it second try. We went off to Glenwood Springs for a nice rest at the water. Heading out there the next day I got back on Pump-Or-Rama and almost sent it. We then drove to the Black Canyon the next day to try and get on the Scenic Cruse. We first got on a 10c called Comic Relief. This was my first multi-pitch in for awhile so I was a little rusty when it came to bulding anchors but we did it. Made it to the top and had a great time climbing the route. The crux was this beautiful finger crack that was just amazing. Close to the top, I got to lead the 5.9 dihedral pitch. That was a great part of the climb. We finish up the climb and begin the rappel I happen to drop my atc. :O I know, I know, what a gumpy move but I did go seven years without dropping anything so it was bound to happen. I had to use the good, old mutter hitch to get down, which is by far the scarriest thing I have ever done! So we get back to camp and talk about the day, realizing that we wont be able to do the Cruse. We left for Rifle the next day, stopping at some water parks for Mark to kayak in. We made it back to Rifle and I was psyched as ever. This was the time for me to send Pump-O-Rama. We get back and I do the warm up twice and then head down to the Pump. I waited a little bit just to get my psych. I put on the knee pads started up the climb and before I know it I am the crux. I screw up the crux trying to alter my beta but I should have just kept with my original beta so I wouldnt be tired but I was able to finish it quickly. I was really happy to have done this because this was my 5th 13 I have done. We then went to In Your Face (12d). I was able to send that climb the same day fifth go. That was my main focus of the trip.  

Lucas Larson getting the rest on Easy Skanken (12b)

Route done on the trip:

Pump-O-Rama 13A

In Your Face 12D

Never Believe 12D

Easy Skanken 12B

Rukus 12B

Crime and Punishment 12A

Firearms 12A

and also some random 11's as well. 

Sorry for this blog post not being as exciting as the others but I am in the process of watching my friend Josh Levin climb at Worlds in Vail, Colorado. More to come due to it being summer! The time to crush is now so my fellow gunners and climbers, go out and have a wonderful summer of crushing.