Transporter Room

While I was down in Bishop for my bday weekend, (sorry forgot to mention it on my last post) I hopped on the Transporter Room 12c. When we got over to the climb Dustin Sabo and I thought we would be good with just 2 pads but when Keven Jorgenson came over he got us some more pads which was great because you really do need them. When I was about to try this sharp crimpy problem I thought the bottom part would take me awhile to get but sure enough I got up to the hard crux physically and mentally because you are high up there. After dropping down I ran down to my car to get my chalk bag. On the way back me and Dustin met up with Charlie Barret. After talking to him for a bit we headed back up there so we could try it again. Second time around I got up there and was working out the crux again. I ended up falling cause I couldnt figure it out. I will be going down next week and hopefully I can get enough pads to try it again. I am also going to be getting up on a rope to check out the top half. Sending soon to come. Here is a video my friend Rod Grossman made.
Transporter Room 12c

Bishop Trip! Part II

So it was about time I updated my blog about my Bishop/birthday weekend. So the day after Thanksgiving, waking up at 5 o'clock AM to go get one of my friends Trevor Roosen in Truckee.After picking him up we gunned it down to Bishop for a exciting weekend. For me I was just happy to get back down there and it being the first time for Trevor. We just got on 395 highway heading towards Carson City when I got a speeding ticket. After dealing with my ticket we were off! With that little set back we were going to be a little late on gunning it down there. While driving through Walker Canyon, I was telling Trevor about the Future Project Boulder that was on the side of the road in this huge turn out. We decided to stop and check out the boulder. After a solid 10 mins of checking out the boulder and letting my legs stretch out from the drive we were back on the road yet again. After we got out of the canyon we got a phone call from my friend Dustin Sabo telling us to meet him at the middle gorge pull out to go gun it on some ropes. We confirmed and got there as fast as possible without getting another speeding ticket. We made it to the gorge being a little late but still heading down anyways. Trevor was in aw as me and Dustin started down the trail to get to the gorge. We went over the the Social Platform wall to warm up and try this 12b that Dustin was talking about on the way down. I was psyched to try it. After a route we hoped on Rip Off 12b. After watching Dustin put up the draws and watching Trevor get up there with a little take, I got nervous. Getting into the start off this really bad crimp to some more bad crimps to a edge that I got a good rest on before I did a couple hard moves till I got to the good jugs to get everything back before I got into the hard section near the top. After getting everything back I gunned it to the finish. With some ridiculous move then match then move and match a couple of times I hit the good three finger pocket. Staring at the anchors I was determined to finish this before I gave up. Being pumped to the max I graped a small crimp and hucked for the flat edge then stuck the giant jug by the anchors. I was so excited to have flashed a Owens River Gorge 12b because the gorge is stout sometimes. After cleaning the gear we went out to find another 12 to try. Walking over to the power plant we hopped on Pumping Ground Water 12a. Now it was my turn to put up the draws on this one. When you first look at it you see all of this poxy gunk everywhere in the beginning of the climb. It then turns into this nice finger crack then it finishes on some crazy mantels to good edges and the top is on some grippy slopers and small sloppy crimps. I did it first go for the Onsight. That day could not have gotten better and it was only day one. Later that night we went into town to get some Mexican food at the local place. As`we walked in there we saw Keven Jorgeson in there hanging with some friends. Not trying to be one of those people who freak out about seeing a pro I just kind of aknoledged him and went to go sit down and eat some food. After stuffing ourselves with some food we went over to check Dustin's and Vic Copland's old stomping ground back when they were developing the Sad Boulders. After taking a tour with Dustin we went to camp and slept. Waking up the next day in Bishop was great. We decided to head over the the Buttermilks because that's where some of my friends were hanging out at. After getting there and warming up, Dustin and I decided to do the Southwest Arete of Grandma Peabody. Climbing that thing was scary but fun. It was more of a solo then a boulder problem climbing up about 30 feet without a rope. We meet up with my friends and climbed a lot down in the milks and had fun just hanging out and climbing. After that me and Trevor went over to the Sads to try Enter the Dragon v9 that Dustin put up. On my first try I got up to the hard crux near the top. I was so shocked. I thought it would take me longer to get up there. After a couple more tries my skin was starting to hurt. With my last try that night I got to the final move of the crux and feel. Knowing that we were coming back we grabbed our pads and headed towards the car. Waking up in the morning we cooked breakfast and then gunned it down to the Happy's. I really wanted to get onto Acid Wash v10. I was one move away from doing it and still am. After a couple good burns I decided to go find Trevor and hook up and try other stuff. After talking to John and Jake we went up to try this problem called Karma. It was recently put up about a year ago. After watching Shane get it and others try it was my turn. Shane said that it was his 6th try to have sent it. Looking at it I was scared that I wouldnt get it. Thinking back about all the other v6's that I flashed I was able to keep it cool and sent. It was a really cool problem. After watching others get it yet again we went back to the Sads. Giving Enter the Dragon one last try. Only trying it three times I gave that thing my all! The video is my best try on it. After getting tired we left and roamed around town for a bit before heading back to camp. Knowing that it was our last day tomorrow we were not to excited. Waking up and packing up was quick cause we wanted to get as much climbing in as possible. I wasnt up for anything hard so we went over to Iron man v4. Watching Joe Geta and Trevor working the thing I wanted to hop back on it. I did it first try in my 510 Deasents. After doing that we went over to try the cave problem. It was a v6 thinking that I could do it as my last problem down in Bishop for the weekend. After getting my shoes on and flashing it the weekend was over and we headed home. This was one of my best Bishop trips by far. Going down the day after Christmas. I wish everyone a Happy Holiday, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Years!

Bishop Trip! Part I

So last weekend I went to my favorite climbing spot in the the whole world, Bishop CA. The worlds mecka for hard bouldering. I went down there for five days climbing and sending hard. I left Friday night with some friends. Getting excited to go climbing and crush it. We got down there and my dad was down there already with a camp site. We get up the next morning in aw of how many people are here. I have been down in Bishop on road trips for six years and I have never seen so many people. Saturday we went to the Happies where I warmed up and decided to hop on some harder stuff. I flashed Mister Witty (v6) and flashed Every Color You Are (v6). I hoped on Rio's Secret Arete (v3) It was scary due to if I was to fall I would back flop onto a rock so it kind of scared me a little bit. Who wants to get hurt on there first day anyways. I later sent it and hoped on High Brow (v8) I almost flashed it but fell and ended up taking out one of my spotters. I tried it again but this time my knees were hurting so I decieded to do it next time. The next day I went to the gorge and hoped on some stuff. I onsigted Manderan Orange (11b) It was hella cool and fun. A little tricky but not to bad. I later hoped on Arora (13a) To get up to the belay spot you had to climb up a steel rebar latter to get up there. It was very sketchy. When I was climbing it felt like all of my feet holds where breaking off and there was sand in my hand when I went for ever hold. After giving that thing a burn it started snowing on us. We left and went into town so I could get a new sleeping bag cause my old one was falling apart on me. It rained all day and all night on us so we decided to play some spades in my dads tent and sleep in it since it would be way warmer than me sleeping in my tent alone. Waking up the next, was horrable. It was freezing cold and not fun at all. I woke up and decided to go to the Sads for the first time. I took the car and drove off into the Volcanic Tablelands. I park and look at the book and decide on what I wanted to do. I walk into the gully and find something to warm up on. The Space Suit (v3) was on this suspended boulder. I drop my stuff down and hope on it. I didnt think I was going to flash it due to it being so over hanging but I surprised myself. I later went and flashed Cow Skull (v5). I was just running around the Sads when the group camping next to us saw me and asked if I would hang out. I did and they told me to try The Fang (v4). This really cool cave with giant bulb at the end where you climb over. Making quick work with the flash, I tried Feeding Frenzy (v7) This thing was hard due to me not wanting my back to dab on the rock where you honesly have no other choice cause its just that close to the other rock. After dabing a few times I did it again but when I dabed I just kept going because it was inpossible not to dab with your back. We left and went to try Strength in Numbers (v5). Starting on the underclings to this giant hueco then scary top out. I get up there and Im near the top just need one more move to get a semi-good hold, with my feeting cutting with out me knowing it, I beared down hard not wanting to give up the flash and falling on a pad covered rock 25 feet off the ground, I staped my foot back on and made the last move. Finishing out on the problem was scary. There wasnt really any hold you were relying more on friction with your hands and the rock. Walking back I tried Pow Pow (v8). I would have flashed it if my feet didnt helecopter me around so much when I made the crux move. I came down and decided to go try some other things. I went and hoped on Ow Ow (v7/8. the two guide books tell me crazy things) I laid the pad down and hoped on it. With a huge surprised i flashed it. Personaly I though it was more like a v7. I didnt really feel that hard, just crimpy. I went over to Molly (v5) and just staired at it in aw of what it looked like. It looked crazy hard but after getting on it and feeling how the pockets where it wasnt to bad. Almost didnt flash it because I grabed the side pull wrong. After doing Molly I got a call from the Willsons saying that I filled out the wrong slip for my resole of my Five Ten Jet 7's. So I go into town and fill out the right paper work this time and decided to just check out the shop again. After a little talk with the employee I went back to camp and was getting ready for my last night down in Bishop. The next morning woke up packed and went to the Happies for one more time. I was excited to try Acid Wash (v10). I warmed up and tried Rave (v7). After falling off the first move three times with my foot just sliding off I finally got it my fourth go. The top wasnt to bad just the bottom. After that I went over and tried Acid Wash. I can do every move but the first one which is this big move to a jug. I just need to figure it out and then I can get my first V10. Drove home that day to go back to work. Worked Wednesday, chilling at home updating the blog and watching this video Austin Nickell made of me and some other climbers, getting psyched to go back down there for my birthday weekend. Just going to have a blast. Here is the video link. http://player.vimeo.com/video/32607732?autoplay=1 ENJOY! and Happy Thanksgiving.

Slip and Crush!

Went out to Star Wall with Dustin Sabo Saturday morning. The whole summit was still cover in snow and we were planing on trying Canibals (12d) but the snow ruined that for us. Any ways we went out to Star Wall to go train since it is a slight over hang but just enough to keep the water off of us. The trail was covered in snow but not bad enough to make it hard on us to get out there, since we already did that once and we fell in like every 20 feet. Well to get to the wall you have to cross this little slab section. It was all covered and in my approach shoes that don't have tread on them didn't help me at all. I slipped and as a reaction I dug my hand into the snow covered rock. I was sliding down for a while till I finally stopped. I take my hand out and it was numb and I couldn't feel it. I shout to Dustin saying I slipped and my hand is numb. I later looked at my hand and saw that I was bleeding. I have severely chiped my nail and that it needed to rip it off. I get to the base of the crag and I showed Dustin. After that we warmed up on Cookie Mix (12a) then later did Warp Factor (13a) As a goal we set, doing Warp Factor five times in a row with out falling, we were determined to accomplish this goal. Dustin was close to doing it but fell at the last move due to being pumped. After watching him fall I got nervous, thinking that I wouldn't be able to do it. After doing it four times no one thought it would go because it was so hard. With Dustin setting the par high I knew I had to either do it or make it to the high point. I got on the route trying my hardest to get to the anchors. It was a fight to the finish and I gave it my all. I finished doing a 13a five times. After we finished that we did Cookie Mix four more times to do ten pitches in a day. We finally did one of our long term go to do ten pitches of 12a or harder and five of our pitches were 13a. We sure did gun it out there to become a better climber and to have fun. Some times you just need to gun it hard to accomplish your goals.

Winning the Local

So yesterday, November 5th of 2011, was Rocksports local ABS comp. It was a great time watching and climbing my hardest and watching other kids crush it out here in Reno. I went there to compete and showed that I still have what it takes to compete being a local and all.Well I competed in the Open category and took 1st. Also took 1st over all in the USA Climbing association. Went into finals for Male Open and took 2nd. It should have been a tie because the winner didn't control this really bad heinous pinch and jumped for a edge while I was able to hold onto the pinch and then move. Oh well its just a comp. I had a lot of fun. Cant wait for the SCS comp and Star Wall on Tuesday.

Scrambled brains!

So me and Queen (Dustin) had a dawn patrol outing last Sunday. Me waking up at 5:30 to go rock climbing? Yeah that's what I did and we got up to Donner to go climbing in 28* degree temps. Freezing outside we warmed up on a quick solo of Devolution 5.7. Nothing really bad but just a quick warm up. Then we head over left of the Snow Shed wall to try some new lines because we were getting tired of getting shut down on our projects that we decided to try something new. We hoped on this 12b called Brain Child. Now climbing the granite at Donner is pretty stout, ask any local and they will give me the thumbs up of rightness. So this climb was like no other climb in Donner. It reminded me of Tuolumne climbing. It had so many holds it was hard to figure out which hold to hold onto. They were like the coolest nobs that I have ever held onto. Anyways Dustin was breaking down the beta in his head while I went in blind till we started discussing the beta since Dustin has done this route before it wasn't too difficult for him. I went up and got up there and hit the crux. A big move where I'm on my tip toes to get this small crimp with my left hand. I barely held it with my thumb catching the side that I match on first then my finger rolling on top of the hold. After already climbing up four bolts and literally see the top from there I knew this was it. I later matched and went out to the good edge that you hit and then crossed into the slopper that kind of reminded of my of a Hard Grit action going on. With this scary mantal over the edge where you clip the anchors. It's pretty scary cause you don't want to fall and slide off then fall for about 10 feet till you past the draw. I just kept my cool and climbed it. Sent it and now I'm going to climb this cool 12d named Canabals. So close on Taste! I will have pictures up by the end of the week if possible. Word!

Sponsorship maybe?

Well I just finished my resume for a climbing sponcorship with Five Ten. I hope it all works out. It would be pretty sweet to get sponsored by my favorite climbing company.

The Guns are Blazing!

I finally sent All Guns Blazing (13a) The third day of the summer of really working it and I finally sent it. That is my third 13a ever. (Warp Factor, Noah's Arc and All Guns Blazing) It is time for me to get Taste the Pain (13c) and then I can find another project to try.

Run away Train!

I finally sent Midnight Train (7/8). Now its time for me to try and get Nichie Girls so then I can do the Triple Crown of Midnight Train, The Hobo, and Nichie Girls. Yeah buddy!

Crazy summer madness.

So summer was crazy. Sending a lot and working projects. Making great progress on Taste! Just one more crux then the send! Sent the Hobo (V9) they say its a 8 but I think its more of a 9 along with others. Its crazy fun. I hope i can send soon. Comp season starting up soon and then kicking but then. A lot of traning and climbing. Just doing what I do and having fun doing it. Check out the vid that my friend made of me doing the Hobo.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOTRnICUZLk

Soloing

What is the mind behind the Soloist? Some thing that they are stupid for what they do, I even thought that for awhile but really its nothing like you have ever experienced before. Its hard to describe it but a friend described it as: your flying in a plane and then the engines stall. The plane goes straight into a nose dive and you are on board thinking of what you wish you could have done before you died. That last moment before the plane hits the ground the captain pulls the plane up and gets it back working again. That moment where you thought that all life was over, thats how we would describe soloing. Its hard to try to explain it to others when they dont appreciat what you are doing. Its not like others are there forcing you to do it. Some people do it but I am not one of them. I solo because I want to prove something to myself, not to others. To me, soloing makes me apprecitate life more. It makes me think of all my memories. It shows me that there are more things than the ones of your memories. Its like a jar of fire flies, no one what to let them free because there are exciting and amazing, just like a memory. We eventually let them go but we dont ever forget how we caught them or what we thought of them but we let them go. Its like letting go of the memories for me when we solo. I know I will always have them but I dont need to hold onto them. Soloing shows me that. It shows me that there is more to life then meets the eye. Its a thing that you have to learn to appreciate. You cant take the rock for granted. It is not safe and can have damaging effects so you must not be too cocky about it. Respect nature and it will respect you. This is what soloing makes me feel like. Its hard to describe how it makes me feel. I am not telling anyone to go out and solo. Im just explaining how it makes us feel. It makes us feel alive. Next time you see any of us, dont judge we are doing it to prove something to ourselves not to other.

ROAD TRIP!

Well Im leaving for San Diego in a couple of days to hang out with my sister, brother in-law and my nephews. The good part about that is that they just started climbing so Im going to be crushing it down in South Cali. I cant wait. Tons of fun to be had very soon

eeehhhh! :/

so today was a ok day I should say. I didnt really do anything hard except Warp Factor twice. It was hotter then hell up at Donner today. Oh well it just wasnt the perfect conditions to climb outside at the moment.

My average day

So on this beautiful day of yesterday me and some of my climbing friends went up to donner and climbed at split rock and grouse slabs area. We had a tone of fun and it was windy. Later that night I found my old friend and me and him went to a gym where me and him and some of our friends would go and do some tricking and stuff. My friends are hella tanks when it comes to tricking. It was just an average day I guess. Now I just need to go up and send my projects up at star wall. Oh and my elbow doesnt hurt which means I am good to climb but with this ugly looking hole in my arm.

Ouch!

Riding a scooter and I fell and by god it hurt really bad. It didnt hurt to pull or push. the real test is on tuesday when I go the Washoe boulders with some friends. I hope this doesnt effect my climbing ability but if it does oh well a rest would be good for awhile.

Good day.

Went to star wall today and sent Warp Factor (13a). Too bad that the pics i had were blurry but I have some witnesses so Im not really worried about it. I do have some photos of my homie Dustin and little sis Gwen sending hard. I am currently up here with a friend who is just plan awesome.

Getting psyched!

Today is going to be a good day. Going climbing with my homie, Dusting and my little sister, Gwen. She is going to be working on projects while me and D$ take a break and try other things at star wall today. Its kind of a way to not get too worked up about our projects and its a good way to get stronger to send them. Its going to be awesome. Cant wait to send. Yeah Boy!

A video of the solo. It makes me feel, well its hard to describe the feeling

TASTING IT!

Taste is giving a good run for my money. I can finally get the hand jam but it hurts like no fucking other. Its some what frustraiting. Then I have a hard time doing the rest of it. Oh well. Im still working on it and Im not going to let that get me down!

The Solo

My view on Short Subject. Its a nice warm up before I go to work on my projects and to send hard. I like this a lot cause not only does it keep my mind set due to the solo but it opens my eyes to the world and the beauty of it all.