Thursday, October 27, 2011

Scrambled brains!

So me and Queen (Dustin) had a dawn patrol outing last Sunday. Me waking up at 5:30 to go rock climbing? Yeah that's what I did and we got up to Donner to go climbing in 28* degree temps. Freezing outside we warmed up on a quick solo of Devolution 5.7. Nothing really bad but just a quick warm up. Then we head over left of the Snow Shed wall to try some new lines because we were getting tired of getting shut down on our projects that we decided to try something new. We hoped on this 12b called Brain Child. Now climbing the granite at Donner is pretty stout, ask any local and they will give me the thumbs up of rightness. So this climb was like no other climb in Donner. It reminded me of Tuolumne climbing. It had so many holds it was hard to figure out which hold to hold onto. They were like the coolest nobs that I have ever held onto. Anyways Dustin was breaking down the beta in his head while I went in blind till we started discussing the beta since Dustin has done this route before it wasn't too difficult for him. I went up and got up there and hit the crux. A big move where I'm on my tip toes to get this small crimp with my left hand. I barely held it with my thumb catching the side that I match on first then my finger rolling on top of the hold. After already climbing up four bolts and literally see the top from there I knew this was it. I later matched and went out to the good edge that you hit and then crossed into the slopper that kind of reminded of my of a Hard Grit action going on. With this scary mantal over the edge where you clip the anchors. It's pretty scary cause you don't want to fall and slide off then fall for about 10 feet till you past the draw. I just kept my cool and climbed it. Sent it and now I'm going to climb this cool 12d named Canabals. So close on Taste! I will have pictures up by the end of the week if possible. Word!

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Sponsorship maybe?

Well I just finished my resume for a climbing sponcorship with Five Ten. I hope it all works out. It would be pretty sweet to get sponsored by my favorite climbing company.

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

The Guns are Blazing!

I finally sent All Guns Blazing (13a) The third day of the summer of really working it and I finally sent it. That is my third 13a ever. (Warp Factor, Noah's Arc and All Guns Blazing) It is time for me to get Taste the Pain (13c) and then I can find another project to try.

Run away Train!

I finally sent Midnight Train (7/8). Now its time for me to try and get Nichie Girls so then I can do the Triple Crown of Midnight Train, The Hobo, and Nichie Girls. Yeah buddy!