Wednesday, January 18, 2012

That shit is The Real Deal



Yesterday, January 17, 2012 I yet again sent another V10. I did The Real Deal up at Donner Summit in California. This problem was put up by Dustin Sabo back when he was my age. This problem has two crux, the first one is when you start. You have this good block to start with, with a really bad smear with you left foot and a good foot with your right foot. You then pull up and literally fall and grab onto the nice edge. You match with your feet and match with your hands then pump your hand to this pinch next to your hand. You then reach up to this nice pinch edge. You have to spragle this thing to even hold on. You cut your feet and place your left foot on a smear and then reverse toe hook with the right foot and pump to another pinch stab your left foot up to another smear and toss for a crimp and try to keep your toe hook. Once when you stick the crimp you have to move your hand up and hit this pinch and with your right heel and then pump your hand onto this other pinch and then flip your heel to toe and then use your other leg to help swing yourself over to the edge with your right hand and pull up and over. This problem was one of the coolest v10's I have done. It was really great and fun. I am excited for bishop hopefuly this weekend. Half Shark Alligator Half Man for sure! 

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