Friday, February 24, 2012

Bishop Trip! Part VII



Leaving the cold, brisk parking lot of Rocksport with Sebastian, heading down on 395 South. Driving past Carson City and talking about how awesome we are, we were way to psyched for this trip but that cant be bad right? Driving down in the dark and just about making it to the little town of Bishop when I get a text message. Telling me how to get to camp were my friends are at. With there very vague directions, Sebastian and I were on a adventure of craziness trying to find them. Eventually we gave up trying to find them and slept in the front seat of my car. That was the most unconfertable sleeping position I have ever been in. Walking with a chilly car we drove to find everyone, and eventually found them. Getting everyone up and ready to climb, I went down to Owens River Gorge. I was helping some of the team kids that were down there and getting them on some classic routes down there. We warmed up at the Warm Up wall. While warming up, we ran into Bird Lew and Mark Stacks. Friends from Reno, we hung out and talked. We later went down to the Banana Belt area and I put a rope on Love Stinks 11a. After the sun faded away we hiked out and headed over to the Happy's to boulder. Walking around trying to find Sebastian and Jonny and everyone else, I lead everyone to try Rio's Secret Arete v3. Watching Tanner and Jenna struggle with this problem they asked me to try it so I can show them the beta. After doing it first try, which was a surprise, Tanner tried it a couple more times and then did it. Getting ready to leave i got a hold of Sebastian and Lindsey and I raced to go pick him up at the Sads. Heading back to camp and lighting a fire for the night, we talked about our adventures. We woke up and packed up the car as well as we could due to the three of us and two pads. The hardest part of packing was putting Lindseys six person tent. That was so much of a pain. We headed over to the Happy's and ran into Josh Levin and Cicada Jenerik at the Acid Wash Area. I also ran into Trevor Seck on the way up. I didnt warm up really and convinced myself to get on Acid Wash v10. I sent it third or fourth try and proceeded to try Acid Wash Right. From the sit it gets a grade of v9. After making quick work of  it we all headed up to Atari v6. I remember trying Atari but never really pulled on it due to me not having the arm span so now it was my chance to go for it now that I have grown. Watching Josh do it and Rick Gentry flash it, it was my turn. Getting up there and slapping up the sides and heel hooking it to death, I got up and hit the good thumb pocket and then you huck for the good lip and pull up and over. After doing Atari we left so I can go to work. Heading home for some while I headed for work, it was a great last day of training before I headed for ABS 13 Nationals. Seventeen hours of a drive to Colorado Springs, Colorado, it was great to get some climbing in before than. Nationals on the way and sending my resume to Trango for a sponsorship.  

Thursday, February 2, 2012

Bishop Trip! Part VI





Driving down south under the stars, listening to some Three Days Grace, talking and having to much fun for our own good, Lindsey and I headed down to Bishop for a weekend of greatness. Driving down betting on if she will pass out or not (which she did btw) Me just trying to get down there cause I wanted to get back to Half Shark. Getting there around  11pm. Waking up with a nicely frosted tent I made Lindsey oatmeal and getting her up was the biggest crux of the day. (Lindsey if you are reading this I am sorry but you know it was true) then heading down to town to get some hot coco and head up to the Buttermilks. Warming up and waiting for Dustin to meet us down there cause he was running late due to him and his issues. I hopped on the Southwest Arete again and then decided to do the down climb to Grandpa Peabody. After making it to the top and looking down at everyone it was time to come down off this huge rock. Now that was the scarriest thing I have ever done in my life. After making it down I did it again to get some photo's. After doing this we met up with Dustin at the Sads and tried the proj. After realizing it was way to hot we went to the Happy's and tried Standing Kill Order V10/11.  After watching Dustin do it we went back to Half Shark and tried to send it. I came really close till I tore part of my finger open. Heading back to camp to eat some food we went to Vons and got some stuff and headed back to camp. Waking up and packing up we headed down to the Happy's and we got on Redrum v7/8. After figuring out the beta for the stand and sending it, I gunned it for the sit, V10. I came really close many of times but didnt send. Sad face I know but next time I will send it along with Standing Kill Order and Half Shark. Nationals later this month in Colorado. I shall keep you posted on that when it happens. Keep on gunning!

Bishop Trip! Part V




Driving down the freshly snowed 395 which not many people do, looking out the window and looking at Mt Tom with a crazy blizzard, trying to get excited on Half Shark Alligator Half Man. This Problem was recently put up by Dan Mills in the Sads. Originally known as the Sun Catcher Problem not enough was known about it. The only thing I know was that I needed to try it after watching Eric Sandchez do this problem for the 3rd ascent. Heading down there late on Saturday due to Dustin haveing to work till 10 we were able to gun it and try about 2 hours of this problem getting the beta and working moves. After firguring out how to do the first moves up to the crux it was dark so we had to save the crux for the next day. Heading down to town to hangout and eat some food we got way to psyched for our own good. After going to Vons to get some stuff and realizing that shit head A.K.A Oscar at my Apple Jacks and Dustin's burrito, we headed up to camp to get some rest. Heading up there and warming up and trying the moves that we worked the night before. We decided to work the crux which is this big move to this good edge from a weired three pocket and a really wide pinch. This move stumped me forever trying to get it. After just psyched I was able to stick the move. Trying to do this from the start was hard! Its hard to try to have enough power to finish the move since this thing is V11. It was a good way to try and get famileure with the problem and be able to understand and do it! Next week I went back down but that's another story to be told.