Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Order Has Been Sent.

Last weekend I went down to Bishop California to do some last season climbing. Leaving Friday to have a early start on Saturday, we were excited to be able to do some last bouldering to get strong. One of my projects was Standing Kill Order, this climb was located in the Slow Dance Cave in the Happy's. Standing Kill Order is on this beautiful prow that makes this problem amazing. Getting the start was no easy challenge, trying to get the toe hook just right was hard for me but the moment, I got it right I didn't stop.
Lucas Larson getting his foot up to make the next move.
Dropping the knee, I stuck the next move and then I had to hit the smallest crimp of my life, and it was virtical so this made it hard to hold. Pumping up to the next crimp and crossing to the pinch, I realized that I did a V11.
The small crimp I had to hold onto.
I never thought I would be able to do that problem so fast. It was only my second day on it. I was really excited! Doing that thing opened my eyes to all the possabilities that I can do out there in the world of climbing. My two week climbing trip is coming up! Rifle, Shelf, Black Canyon and Maple are calling my name. More to come but for now, KEEP CRUSHING!
Lucas reaching for the far away crimp.

Lucas Larson staring at the next good crimp.



Bishop Trip! Part VIII & IX

Bishop Sunset
So you may be wondering why I have put two Bishop trips on one post, well the reason is that Bishop Trip part eight wasn't really successful. The only thing I really did was Pow Pow V7/8. Didn't really do much after that. There is a video of my send below.
Bishop part nine was more successful. This trip I went down with Dustin Sabo, we headed down to get on the Sun Catcher A.K.A Half Shark Alligator Half Man. The first day was ok, it was a little cloudy and it rained that day. After we failed in the Sads we headed over to the Happy's to get on Standing Kill Order v11. After a couple of tries and getting really psyched, I got up and finished the climb. This was my first v11 and I was really psyched to have gotten this climb because it is such cool problem. More about it in my next post.
Lucas Larson on the beginning of Standing Kill Order

Monday, April 16, 2012

SCS Open Nationals

Last weekend I trecked across Utah and Wyoming to go to Boulder, Colorado for Sport Climbing Series Open Nationals. Driving back 6 weeks later from ABS Nationals, we knew what was ahead of us for the drive. Making a stop in Rawlines, Wyoming for the first night was not really good for me. I had a hard time sleeping due to be me not feeling so well. Waking up and finishing our drive, I texted my good friend Urs Moosmuller, telling him that I am in Boulder and that we should hang. We ended up climbing in Boulder Canyon with Emma Boone and Keith Earley. Heading up there and warming up and starting to get into the hard climbing, I got on this 11a named Free Willy, which to me wasn't really a 11a but more like a 10b but who knows, I am bad at making proper grade assumtions. After that Urs and I went over to this 12c called Animal Instecnt. This was a really cool arete climb. With Urs putting up the draws we were able to make quick work of this climb, with me getting it my second try. With our adventure just starting, we left to head back to town but something happened. The car wasn't really going so we thought we ran out of gas. We cost down the hill back into town and Emma went off to get gas. Getting gas and trying to leave we found out that Urs has sealed his exhoust pipe shut when he was backing out. We were able to get a small whole in the pipe and were able to get to a Home Depot to buy a hack saw and saw off part of the pipe. That was a really good night.

Movement Climbing and Fitness 
Nationals were being held at Movement Climbing and Fitness. I have never been to this gym before and I was in aw of this gym. It was really nice and well done. Climbing on Route B first was hard. The route itself was the one that would be the biggest challenge for all of the competitors. I like Route B due to the really cool knee bar not too far up the wall. Making it up to the cross which spit me off, I watched and waited for the next route that was coming my way. Route A was on this just off vertical wall that lead to a roof. It was easier than my first route. Leading up to the roof was easy and technical and then it lead to a pumpy section on the roof. Going back to the hotel after everything was over, I went online and checked to see who was in finals. Seeing that my friend Josh Levin and Jacquenlyn Wu made it to finals was really awesome to see. I took 22nd which was really awesome for me. I was really excited to have done that well. Finals were the next day and everyone was getting excited.

Lucas Larson making a cross after the knee bar on Route B




Lucas Larson starting the roof of Route A
With finals right around the corner everyone was getting excited to watch the nations best climb to see who wins it all. Getting inside and looking at the amazing routes the setters have down was a great way to show that I wanted to set something like that back home. It got my setting fire back. Taking tons of photos and watching everyone work and try as hard as they can to make it to the top. Finals were over and speed climbing came with my good friend Josh taking second for speed climbing. Sasha took first for the women's. She was amazing to watch climb. Here are the high lights of it. Bishop coming up and my two week trip to Colorado next month. Enjoy!