That shit is The Real Deal

Yesterday, January 17, 2012 I yet again sent another V10. I did The Real Deal up at Donner Summit in California. This problem was put up by Dustin Sabo back when he was my age. This problem has two crux, the first one is when you start. You have this good block to start with, with a really bad smear with you left foot and a good foot with your right foot. You then pull up and literally fall and grab onto the nice edge. You match with your feet and match with your hands then pump your hand to this pinch next to your hand. You then reach up to this nice pinch edge. You have to spragle this thing to even hold on. You cut your feet and place your left foot on a smear and then reverse toe hook with the right foot and pump to another pinch stab your left foot up to another smear and toss for a crimp and try to keep your toe hook. Once when you stick the crimp you have to move your hand up and hit this pinch and with your right heel and then pump your hand onto this other pinch and then flip your heel to toe and then use your other leg to help swing yourself over to the edge with your right hand and pull up and over. This problem was one of the coolest v10's I have done. It was really great and fun. I am excited for bishop hopefuly this weekend. Half Shark Alligator Half Man for sure! 

Acid Wash

So last weekend I did my first v10 down in Bishop. I did Acid Wash. So many people go out to the jug for the first move, now let me tell you that doing that does not make it a v10. You must do it the orginal way. Which is the same start but you hit the gaston and the up into the sloppers. So anyways I was able to complete my first v10. I was so excited! Finally a double digit for once. It was really exciting to get to the top of the boulder and just think about how I did it. It was great. Now its time to move on to other climbs. Beef Cake and Slow Dance soon.

Bishop Trip! Part IV

So last weekend I, yet again, went back down to Bishop to go climbing. This time I was with my friend Lindsey Bath. She has only been climbing for 5 months and is working v6 and 11b. She got in Wednesday night from her trip to Texas and I was closing that night as well. She got in about the same time I got off so it worked out perfectly. After closing and picking her up we had to stop and get food for our trip. Leaving the town of Reno at the time 11pm, we drove down to the town of Bishop and  rolled in to camp at about 3am. Setting up the tent and then fell asleep. Waking up and getting really excited, he headed over to the Buttermilks to warm up and try some hard stuff. We warmed up on the Sunshine slab boulder. After doing the nice easy highballs we went over and tried the Cave Problem v3 on Grandpa Peabody boulder. I then got on the Southwest Arete 5.9 on the Grandma Peabody. After doing that I hoped on Go Granny Ho v7. I sent it first try which was pretty nice. After that we meet up with my friends and went over to where Moonraker was. After showing them how I did it we went over and got on Bowling Pin. Watching my friend Trevor Roosen flash the v4 part, I decided to get on and try the v6 sit  start to this problem. Flashing that problem we went back into town to chill and eat some food. We get back to camp and chill for a little bit and set off some bottle rockets. Waking up and going down to the gorge to get some endurance going action going on. After doing some ropes and hiking out of the gorge, we went to the Happy's to get some bouldering going down. There I sent my first v10. I did Acid Wash but I did it to the jug then did it the orginal way to do it since Dustin Sabo was the FAer. After doing that we went to go climb by moonlight. We did another climb but scared ourselves cause we thought we saw something. Waking up after dealing with some problems that night we went back to the Happy's so Lindsey can do some last minute climbing. After we were done with the day we drove home. That Bishop trip was great and exciting. I was very happy to have spent it with Lindsey. More bishop trips to come soon.

Moonraker

Two weeks ago I did my first Bishop V9. This v9 was named moonraker. This problem was put up by my best friend Dustin Sabo. He first ascent this problem back when him and Vic Copland were roaming down in Bishop when they were my age. After being tired and complaining about how my skin hurt that day I went back to go try some other problems and some how ended up doing moonraker instead. It was great. My friend Nick Bradly was also there trying to get Gleaming the Cube sit V8. Second go we were so close and later both sent our problems third go. It was pretty cool to do moonraker. First move is off these underclings with ok feet to a ok small edge. After sticking that you have to place your right heal next to your hand on the undercling. Your heal sits on this supper small crystal and you pray to god that it holds while you do everything else. After sticking the heal you go out right to this good edge then bump to this small edge. After sticking that you get another heal and fall into the first hold you bumped off of. Now the beta is to turn your heals into toe scums. With that you are able to get most of your body weight on that right arm to be able to hold the swing when you cut your feet. After holding the swing you then now have to find a way into the scoop and crawl through the hole and up the v2 to finish it.
 Here is a link to my vid of me doing this climb.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uFBxyTiID8&feature=youtu.be

Bishop Trip! Part III

So the weekend of new years I went back down to Bishop CA to go and try to crush some of projects. Leaving work at 8pm to get down there at not have to wake up early to get down there and not have much of a climbing day. So driving down was great. It went by really fast considering my top speed for the night was 103 mph. Getting up to Buttermilk road to meet some friends that I was meeting. After finding them at 12am I decided not to set up my tent and sleep in my car. Waking up at 8am to get some good gunning in, I was the first one to wake up. Waiting for everyone to wake and see what they are planning on doing. After roaming around the campsite waiting and they finally woke up and were ready to go climbing. Heading up to the Buttermilks on the road watching the Peabodys go by getting excited to yet again be back in Bishop. So warming up on Iron man v4 in my approach shoes again and running around just climbing what seemed easy. After the craziness that we were having I wanted to try moonraker. Getting over there and getting excited and meeting up with some friends I met up at Donner during the summer. After doing some catching up I got my shoes on and got excited to hopefully get it. After getting shut down a couple of times I decided to call it day because my tips were screaming at me. Leaving to go back to camp and having a great night just to have another day out in the milks. Waking up at 7am to go climb with Matt and Hannah Grossman back out in the milks. Pulling up and meeting them there just as they were getting there pads out of the car. The goal of the day was to pull on Iron Man v4 for Hannah and Matt and to go try Go Granny Go. Helping Matt and Hannah with some beta on Iron man Matt finally did it. Half of the day was complete with Matt doing that climb. Watching and trying to help Hannah send for awhile we headed down to go do Go Granny Go v5. After watching them climb and work it Matt yet again did his project. After hanging out with them I headed back to town to chill for a bit and try to get re-motivated. Heading back up to the Buttermilks to get back on moonraker, I met up with my good friend Nick Bradly. After hearing him sending his first v10, I wanted to get the break down on it. Heading over to moonraker we were talking about how school and break was going. Waiting for some of the other kids Nick was with I was getting excited. Setting up my camera and trying it three times one of which was me sticking the swing and the last one was me doing it. It was my first Bishop v9. Being tired I headed back to camp with my friend Eric Wolf and his girlfriend. After talking to them and finding out Eric almost sent fall guy v9 we went to bed. Waking up early to meet some friends to show them around the Happy's and leaving to head back home. My trip down to bishop was not as adventuous as it normally is but sending a v9 down there was inspiration to me to try my hardest even in the time of wanting to give up.